A Saint's wish.... (part 1)

A Thirteen year old Swaminathan nurtured a great wish to visit the Nataraja temple of Chidamabaram. His desire grew leaps and bounds even after he was anointed the monastic head of the Kanchi Shankaracharya Mutt as Pujya Sri Chandrashekhara Saraswathi Mahaswamigal, lovingly called by one and all as Maha Periyava.

When Mahaperiyava decided to embark on his first ever Padayatra, it was from Kalavai/ Kanchi to Chidambaram. Chidambaram in 1933 was visited by Maha Periyava and a radiant mahaperiyava emerged from the closed sanctum after 4 hours of closed door closed door confabulations with the then priest, Shri Swarna venkatesha dhikshitar. 

Perhaps it was then, the Maha Periyava decided to have formulated his great, grand wish which is a vision for saivaites all around the globe, the wish that will unfold in this write up, and the wish that made me dash to a place where I didn't know a secret existed, even though I've been there over 10 - 15 times.

Many a secrets in Chidambaram....

But then yes, the one word that always comes to one's mind when the word Chidambaram is uttered is Rahasyam or secret. This secret is incidentally a secret about that cosmic secret! 

The Maha Periyava traversed the length and breadth of the country during his various padayatras. What germinated as a wish during his first padayatra fructified during his last padayatra. Perhaps, was his search for the ideal place that made this great divine play? Or was is the case of perfect end to a perfect start that he had planned right in the beginning? One can never decode such secrets. 

His last Padayatra was in the year 1978 and the destination of Satara, an obscure village in Maharashtra. He chose to stay there for a period of 11 months and there every dot fell in place to be connected to paint a beautiful picture. He unravelled many a secrets in Satara. During his 11 months stay at Satara, in the esteemed Shankara mutt, many a devotees paid their obeisance to Maha Periyava. Amongst them was one Shri Shamrao D Shanbhag, called as Shamanna. Shamanna offered money to the saint on his visit. Maha Periyava mere looked at the money and smiled and asked him to return tomorrow. 

Shamanna was troubled that the saint didn't accept his offerings and thought perhaps it was a low amount and offered him more the next day. The Maha Periyava was amused more and told Shamanna that he doesn't accept money and asked him not to bother offering material things. Instead he probed about the desire Shamanna harboured. Shamanna begged his forgiveness for his earlier action and expressed his desire. 

Shamanna's desire and Maha Periyava's cosmic drama and the rest of the secrets will be unravelled in the concluding part....

Autos of TN - A part of my backacking trip to Rameshwaram.....

In extreme contrast to the auto driver in previous post "transformation of Gujarat" are the autos of Tamil Nadu. Chennai autos are notoriously famous for charging anything that comes to their mind, refusing to ply to destinations other than what they have in their mind, rigged meters etc. 

But this happened in a town, far from chennai. I was on my backpacking trip across South India and I took a train from Vaideeswaran Koil to Chidambaram. The train was scheduled to leave Vaideeswaran koil by 3:30 pm and reach Chidambaram by 4:15 pm. Now that gave me ample of time to take photos of Chidambaram. 

Reaching the vaideeswaran temple in torrential rains, I bought a ticket to cover the 20 odd kms. Thanks to the largess of the Indian railways, the ticket cost me 5 Rs. Sadly, the train arrived a good 1 hour and 20 mins late, though the start point was just 15 kms away (Mayuram / Mayiladuthirai). 

When I alighted at Chidambaram station, roughly 1.5 kms from the temple, I thought I should take an Auto to reach faster, as the time was almost 6. Can try to get some pics in sunlight, that was dying fast in the sudden rains, that just stopped minutes before my train chugged in. 

So I asked the auto driver how much it would be to chidambaram temple, and he casually replied 80 rs. I realised there is no point haggling with him, and hence told him politely, "Thanks but no thanks. I'd rather walk". 

He started pointing to the board kept outside the station stating police has mentioned the fares. I'm not sure in which place in India 1.5 kms is 80 bucks in an auto, that too in a small town. May be it was a cultural shock landing from Mumbai to TN. But I kept walking ignoring him, stating the same, that I'd rather walk. 

Now he starts following me asking, "How much will you pay?"

I didn't want to haggle or bargain and I decided to walk. So I told him the same and kept walking. Then came his arrogant cocky reply. 

"People who walk shouldn't ask for autos in the first place". 

I stood, looked back and asked him, whether that rule is written in the board which shows "exorbitantly looting fares". As a customer, I am free to ask. If I don't feel it is worth it, I move ahead. 

I kept walking and soon other auto drivers get around him and ask what the problem was. Our hero was complaining that I said I would rather walk. I didn't look back, but I continued walking. Soon an auto pulled up to me and stopped. A polite driver got down and spoke to me. 

"Sir, those thugs are like that. They have put up such rubbish boards and are looting unsuspecting passengers. They are spoiling the lively hood of genuine people like me. Please don't walk carrying your heavy backpack just because those morons spoke trash. I will take you. Just pay 50 rs.". 

I thanked him for his kind gesture and told him that I've decided to walk. Hardly 10 mins of walk. It is not about the money. It is about how you treat a visitor. We are a country that says Athiti devo bhava. And it is a lesson for me at a right time that I should perhaps just ignore and keep walking. He now started requesting me. 

"Sir. I deliberately fought with them stating that I will take you to the temple in my Auto. Now if you refuse, those guys will make fun of me while I go back. I was so sure that you'd come with me". 

I could only sympathise with him. I realised his predicament. And I had to explain him mine. "I moved away stating I will walk. I didn't haggle when he said 80. Now if I get in to your rickshaw for 50, won't I look like like a cheap person and won't they make fun of me? Beyond all this, there's a divine calling that I need to walk. I have been taking trains, buses since days and have walked most of the distance. Just another kilometer". 

He looks at me for one last time and says, "Sir, for me. I will drop you free.". 

I ask him back, "What is the name of the god in Chidambaram?"

Nadaraja, he replied. 

"Isn't it clear that he has already told me the same? Nada (walk) - Raja"? 

He understood. All he could say was sorry for the behaviour of the looting gang. I gathered pace and reached the temple complex in the next 5 mins.  When I stepped in, it was time to leave the rest of the world behind as I was greeted by a wonderful sight of Rudrabhisheka with milk for the Subramanya swami on the occassion of Kritigai that finally culminated in the Rudrabhisheka of the Spatika Lingam and the statue of Rudra, with a glorious darshan of the Chidambara Rahasiyam....